For a genre of clothing that has traditionally moved slowly when it comes to trends, the not-so-humble suit has been at the centre of a style revolution.
From Balenciaga's broad-shouldered '80s looks to the mobster revival at annual men's fair Pitti Uomo it seems that men are spoiled for choice when it comes to fashion.
Along with the increasing number of men taking interest in what they're throwing on their backs, so has the number of businesses offering various levels of tailoring services – from made-to-measure to a bespoke creations. There is a level of suiting available for any budget and any situation, including last minute rushes.
Even options to buy 'off the rack' have improved, partly because men have begun to understand the importance of fit and using instore alteration services. There's been an improvement in variety and quality, driven by the influence of high-end menswear portals such as Mr Porter and boutiques such as Harrolds opening up the local menswear market to some of the world's best luxury labels.
But what are the biggest shifts happening in the world of men's tailoring?
Suited for comfort
While slim fits still reign supreme, the most obvious trend to hit men's suiting has been the introduction of a more relaxed fit. Looser in the leg and the jacket, it's a style that sits somewhere between a gangster from the 1930s and Gordon Gekko's '80s power suit.
"The skinny cut short jacket style that we have seen since early 2000 is for the most part forgotten," says Australian suit master Patrick Johnson. "In its place a more relaxed, soft, natural and comfortable cut has emerged ... we are revisiting that early '90s Armani aesthetic now but in a less extreme way."
Where silhouettes are relaxing, other details are refining too.
A year ago, any man worth his lapel pin was sporting a double-breasted jacket. But this year, jackets have embraced a more simpler aesthetic – single-breasted, two-button and notched lapel. Or even a shawl collar, which is more traditionally reserved for eveningwear but increasingly used as an alternative to create personal flair.
"The biggest trend and major focus for us right now is high performance suiting and the advances in the fabrics used," says Joe Farage, founder of Sydney-based menswear label Farage.
"There's now a huge variety of fabrics that are crease proof, water resistant and ultra light, making them perfect for travel and everyday wear. This has come off the back of the sports luxe trend with many of our customers now looking for more durable suit options."
Zegna's Cool Effect range, Farage's own anti-crease fabrics and Hugo Boss's Travel line are all examples of how designers are incorporate cutting edge fabric tech into daily tailoring.
Lachie Watson, Head Fitter at Oscar Hunt, says they've noticed more men taking risks with their suits, and choosing fabrics and finishes that go beyond your traditional blue wools.
"We're seeing clients opt for suits with casual textures in varying weights, textures that bring the cloth to life."
A great example of this has been the number of suits with mottled effects that add a depth and richness to the base colour.
The art of decoration
Call it the Gucci effect; one of the biggest breakaways in suiting has been the use of applique, embroidered embellishments and decorative finishes.
Both Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have followed, ahem, suit, releasing jackets with rich detailing across the chest and lapel.
It's not for everyone, but it certainly does add a more extroverted flourish to a clothing that traditionally prides itself on finer, more understated, details.
Check out the gallery above to see 32 of the best suits for men in 2017.